Ireland Part 1: Powerscourt Estate, Gledalough, Kilkenny, and Rock of Cashel

 Powerscourt Estate, Glendalough, Kilkenny, and Rock of Cashel

Our hope for these next few blog posts is to take you through our Ireland road trip one stop at a time. A lot of people told us we were crazy when they found out our plan of literally driving the entire way around Ireland (and with a baby) but we loved talking to these people and sharing our stories of our journey thus far. So here we are the beginning of our whirlwind trip.

We arrived in Dublin bright and early at 5:30am local time after nearly 15 hours of travel. Let's just say we were all pretty jet lagged so we didn't see much of the city our first day. We started and ended in Dublin so we weren't that sad knowing that we had a few days to explore at the end of our trip. After recovering with some sleep we grabbed some breakfast from East Village Cafe in Clonkadin and headed straight for Kilkenny. On our way we stopped at Powerscourt Estate and Gardens just outside of Dublin. The 68 room mansion was built in 1741 by a German architect for the 1st Viscount Powerscourt. This mansion was absolutely beautiful and the grounds were vast. Adorned with garden after garden, you could spend all day exploring this property. We took our time wandering around and quickly realized it was not as stroller friendly as they made it seem, but we made it work! Aspen loved crawling around in the dirt, rocks and grass trying to eat everything and anything off of the ground. We ended up eating lunch inside the mansion at a little cafe before we left. 

We then headed to Glendalough in County Wicklow to explore the Monastic City. This is an early Christian monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. There are remains of buildings from the 11th century which was so surreal to experience and see in real life. I had done a lot of research and this area of Ireland was a place that I had to see. It was so peaceful to walk through the graveyards, towers and remnants of churches with sheep grazing nearby. What was so beautiful about it all was that it was nestled in a valley between two lakes.

After a few hours we drove up a tiny road, got out of the car and stood in awe of the view of Glendalough below, Ireland was already blowing our minds and it was only day two!

Onwards we went to Kilkenny, arriving late in the evening we checked into our hotel and then headed into town for some good ol' Irish pub food. Where better else to experience an Irish pub than at Kyteler's Inn, the oldest pub in Ireland dating back to 1263. We were warmly welcomed with a highchair for Aspen and a table by a fireplace. We were surprised at the fact that Aspen was welcome even though it was after 10pm and I had read that most pubs do not let minors in after 9pm. We quickly discovered that is not true and the Irish LOVE children everywhere and at any time (phewf!). We enjoyed a delicious meal and Myles started his Irish beer drinking days off right with the sound of live music just a few feet away.

We went back to the hotel and Aspen's jet-lag sleep saga began. He did not sleep from 10pm until 5am for about four nights, poor guy had his days and nights mixed up. We strapped him in the stroller and paced the hotel halls for hours throughout the night just hoping he'd fall asleep. Anyways we survived and were off the next morning to explore Kilkenny.

We strolled down Medieval Mile through narrow streets with colourful old buildings and awed at St. Mary's and St. Canice's Cathedrals. We decided to be tourists and purchase tickets to go inside Kilkenny Castle and we are glad we did. Although almost all of the 12th century castle has been redone there were a few original pieces which was cool to see. We then walked to the Black Abbey and then stopped for lunch at the Pantry Cafe before wandering the streets a bit more. We ended the night off with dinner at Matt the Millers Pub across the river. 

Another sleepless night later we woke up and drove straight to Rock of Cashel which was incredible. You could see it from a distance, this massive castle like (it's actually a church dating back to 1101) building up on a huge rock jetting out from sheep pastures below. We parked at the bottom and walked up to explore. I absolutely loved this stop of our trip, just watching Aspen in awe of everything around him made me so excited that we had him with us on this trip. He walked hanging onto walls older than we can even comprehend, he rolled around on the grass with an incredible view behind him. We tried so hard to capture exactly what we saw so that we can show our family and friends just what we experienced. We then drove a few minutes down the street and walked to Hore Abbey (est. 1540) which was remains of a church in the middle of this field below the Rock of Cashel. We had the entire place to ourselves and Aspen roamed free, eating grass and wild flowers. This is what we imagined Ireland to be, vast openness with castles and sheep everywhere we look (no but seriously it was actually like that!). We strolled back into Cashel and ate lunch at the cutest pub called J. Feehan's.  After some good quality pub food we made our way to our next destination, Cork.

Europe: Hallstatt

When I first started researching our Europe trip I had a goal of visiting a tiny mountain town on the edge of a lake. I came across an article that listed the top 10 most beautiful and secret towns you MUST visit in Europe, and Hallstatt, Austria was on this list.

When planning it became clear how difficult it would be to get there as it's legitimately in the middle of nowhere in Austria and isn't all that touristy which made finding a place to stay tricky. I was determined to make it happen no matter what it took! After booking a flight from Prague to Salzburg I set out to find a place for us to stay in Hallstatt. I ended up finding an adorable little B&B and started emailing back and forth with the owners who only spoke German (made making a reservation super interesting!).

We arrived in Salzburg on July 24th and realized getting to Hallstatt was going to be quite the trek involving multiple buses, multiple trains, a ferry and quite a bit of walking (and the 2 planes it took us to get to Salzburg). From the time we boarded the second bus which took us to the train station we were deep in the Austrian mountains and everything was unbelievably gorgeous.

We rode the train through tiny little villages nestled between lakes and mountains before arriving at the ferry "terminal," one dock with the tiniest boat to shuttle you across the lake. We now realize that we didn't document our trek to Hallstatt because we were so confused and exhausted the entire way. In total: 2 planes, 2 buses, 1 train, 1 ferry, a bunch of walking and over 12 hours later we arrived!

We hopped off the ferry and felt like we had stepped back in time, with less than 800 residents all dressed in lederhosen, Hallstatt was already a dream come true. Apparently everyone in this town has the same last name or very similar so finding our B&B was kind of funny and involved a bunch of "Is this it? No wait wait I think this is it." We were so happy with our accommodation once we found it, an old bed and breakfast with a lake view and the sweetest owners.

We headed for dinner and stumbled across one of five restaurants in the entire town and ate traditional Austrian food by the lake as swans swam past us, so dreamy!!! We walked around a bit after dinner before getting caught in torrential downpour which had us running back to our place where we met the owner, a lady in probably her late 70's, who suggested we go for a swim! We thought wait what? A swim? It's pouring and kind of cold, then she said okay well I'm going for a dip that's what you do here when it rains! So we changed into our bathing suits and ran in the most epic downpour to the lake where Myles jumped in, I dipped my toes in and decided it was probably best I didn't jump in as I was already freezing with blue lips and soaking wet anyways.

The next day the skies cleared up and we ate a delicious brunch in the town square before renting a tiny electric boat and driving it all around the lake which we had basically to ourselves. This is probably one of the most memorable moments of our entire trip, complete silence, towering mountains, a secluded mountain town with a castle within view. We wandered through the grounds of the church (most iconic photo of Hallstatt if you google it) and walked through the cemetery marvelling at tombstones thousands of years old. Part of the church contained skulls of deceased residents that had been dug up to create room for family members to be buried... that's how small this town was, no room to bury the dead.

Later in the day the rain came again but we decided to go on a walk/hike to a waterfall we heard was nearby. Well it wasn't quite "nearby" but we trekked on anyways before walking through a farmer's pasture filled with animals to the foot of this waterfall, again just so dreamy!

The following day we decided to hike to the over 3000 year old Faszination Salzwelten (salt mine) which was perched above the town of Hallstatt. Once atop we decided to splurge and purchase a salt mine tour and we were not disappointed! After donning some pretty amazing looking mining outfits (mostly just to protect our clothes) we headed into the mine with a group of people and one tour guide. The farther we walked the colder it got (like really cold!), ice started to form on the cave walls and you could see your breath. In total we travelled over a kilometre into the mountain and over a kilometre downwards. The tour was hilarious as we rode slides even further into the mountain (for sure not safe whatsoever), you just had to keep laughing or else the overwhelming sense of claustrophobia would get you. We rode out of the mine on the sketchiest "train" I've ever experienced, it was basically you straddling a piece of 2x4 with wheels on it through the narrowest track in complete darkness without any type of restraint. We were told to keep our heads down and bodies tucked in as the cave walls were brushing up against your shoulders as you flew through the darkness. Well worth the money we paid, as we will most likely never experience such history like the 7000 year old wooden staircase uncovered within the mine (the oldest in Europe) or taking home salt from that very mine itself.

We ended the day by eating some authentic Austrian food again (okay and a hot dog at 9pm from some guy standing outside) and a restful night in our B&B. The quietness we experienced was a whole new level of peace which was so beautiful. There were no crowds, no mad tourists buying souvenirs in a frenzy, just the people who had lived there for generations. 

We could not have asked for a better time in Hallstatt and want to visit again so badly but maybe next time in the winter as there'd be no better sight than those mountains covered in snow! 

We highly encourage you to do some of your own research on Hallstatt as it was just so incredible we feel like our words don't do it justice!

Up next (who knows when) Berlin, Germany!

Europe: Prague

So it's kind of hard to blog once you've been home for a month and a half from a trip of a life time.... We are almost done blogging our European vacation, here's our short but sweet stay in Prauge, Czech Republic!

We arrived in Prague on July 22nd and didn't really have any idea of what we were going to do there besides go see the castle. This was probably the only country that I didn't really plan anything and it actually turned out to be just fine! After walking right past our AirBnb we eventually figured out where we were and were able to meet the owner of the apartment. She was so lovely and gave us free transit passes to use during our stay (came in handy when we got randomly searched by the police looking for fare evaders).

We were starving as per usual when arriving in a new country so we found a cute little outdoor restaurant along the river with live music and a nice view. We walked the historic Charles Bridge and wandered around the grounds of the old Prague Castle. My favourite part of the night was when we stumbled across this gelato place that served your ice cream in the shape of a rose with a macaroon on top (totally worth the $8 per cone, proven by our 2nd visit the next day). On our way back to our apartment we got caught in a rainstorm with no jackets or umbrellas so we just embraced the down pour as we zig zagged our way back home.

The following day was hot and sunny and we visited Prague's old town, got to go inside the castle, other old buildings and churches, saw the famous astronomical clock (I still don't get it, someone please explain the importance of this clock), and ended the night with dinner in the old town at a tiny authentic Czech restaurant. We absolutely loved Prague and our 2 days there went way too fast! Next up... Hallstatt, Austria!